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網誌分類:Wines of the Week |
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網誌日期:2009-12-26 00:41

Merry Christmas!  It's X'mas time and I have drunk more than 10 wines this week!  There are even a few that I didn't have any tasting notes taken so not included here.  Of the ten, there are four that I would like to recommend but there are two that I'm disappointed.  For Gaja Promis, I'm not just a bit disappointed but seriously unhappy with it!

  • Allegrini, Palazzo Della Torre, 2006
  • Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir Isabelle 2006
  • Berrys' Extra Dry, Crémant de Limoux NV
  • Dom. Heresztyn Gevrey Chambertin Vielles Vignes 2005
  • Ch. Canon La Gaffeliere 2001
  • Ch. Larcis Ducasse 2003
  • Gaja Ca'Marcanda Promis 2006
  • Marchesi de Frescobaldi Montesodi Riserva 2005
  • Ch. Gruaud Larose 1996
  • Royal Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos

Allegrini, Palazzo Della Torre, 2006 (Recommended - very good value for money)

Purchased from Watson's Wine Cellar HK$159 (http://www.watsonswine.com/WebShop/BrowseProductDetail.do?prdid=308874)

Region: Veneto, Italy

Grape Varieties: Corvina Veronese 70%, Rondinella 25%, Sangiovese 5%

Winemaker Notes:
This wine is produced using an innovative RIPASSO method. Well-structured, smooth and rounded, this wine is characterised by a long, elegant finish. Deep ruby red in colour, it has a delicious wild berry perfume, with flavour of raisins. The grapes Corvina Veronese, Rondinella and Sangiovese from the Palazzo della Torre vineyard follow two different paths: 70 % of the grapes are vinified immediately after the harvest, the remaining percentage is dried until the end of December. At this point, the wine ferments again with the dried grapes. This wine will age easily for 8 - 10 years.

Palazzo della Torre is great with a wide range of risotti (particularly with pork), mixed grilled meats, roasts and the traditional Veneto boiler meats bollito misto. Serve at 16-18 C (61-64 F) and open the bottle an hour before drinking.
 
My Tasting Notes:
Bright red purple in colour.  Showing nose of fresh blackberry flavour with mint even though the nose is a little bit weak initially.  Palate is very dense and full bodied with red cherry flavour.  Tannins is smooth and the wine is very balanced with refreshing acidity.

In general, I think this wine is very well made.  It has very good fruit concentration and has good structure.  I quite like this wine and has drunk quite a lot of it.  The wine is also very food friendly.  Have tried to match this wine with a variety of fairly standard Chinese banquet dishes and most work quite well.

Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir Isabelle 2006

Purchased from Berry Bros. Hong Kong HK$468 (http://www.bbr.com/product-99044Z-au-bon-climat-isabelle-pinot-noir-california)

Region: Oregon, United States

Grape Varieties: Pinot Noir 100%

Winemaker Notes:
While most Au Bon Climat Pinots are vineyard specific, Isabelle is created by masterful blending in the cellar of the best barrels from those specific sites (Bien Nacido, Sanford & Benedict, Talley Rincon, Mt. Carmel...the proportions are a very proprietary secret). The result is a wine of incredible depth, complexity, and focus- very serious Pinot. For this year's Isabelle, Jim was presented with more quality components than he has ever had to work with due to the exceptional nature of the vintage. A brilliant effort worthy of space in any cellar- it will live for years.

My Tasting Notes:
(Tasted blind) Decanted for one and a half hour.  Very ripe, very dense, quite fat in palate.  A bit too much oak and too much vanilla.  A good wine if you are looking for a very dense and ripe Pinot Noir.  However, this is not the style I'm looking for.  I think it lacks elegance and I don't enjoy wine with too noticeable oak flavour.

Berrys' Extra Dry, Crémant de Limoux NV (Recommended - a good party wine)


(Photo from Berry  Bros.)

Purchased from Berry Bros. Hong Kong HK$118 (http://www.bbr.com/product-40844B-berrys-extra-dry-cremant-de-limoux)

Region: Languedoc-Roussillon, France

Grape Varieties: Mauzac, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc

Winemaker Notes:
This is a hugely successful marriage of Champagne elegance with the ripeness ofLanguedoc fruit from iconoclast and native Champenois Jean-Louis Denois; Ourown Extra Dry is now made from a blend of Mauzac, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc.A soft, delicate mousse and a floral nose with the suggestion of honey, nougatand limes combine to give this wine from the south of France immense appeal.Perfect for any occasion.

My Tasting Notes:
A very easy party sparkling wine.  Very fruity and very ripe.  While lacking complexity, this wine certainly will not disappoint you if you need to find an affordable party sparkling.

Dom. Heresztyn Gevrey Chambertin Vielles Vignes 2005

Price Around HK$500 (Bought by my friend so not sure about the retailer)

Region: Burgundy, France

Grape Varieties: Pinot Noir 100%

Burghound Wine Notes (www.burghound.com):
The wood this displayed from cask has virtually all been absorbed and combines with expressive aromas of violets, warm earth and dark berry fruits that merge into rich, full and much more serious flavors that possess excellent volume and a suave, round and mouth coating finish, all wrapped in a finish of outstanding length for a villages level wine. This is impressive and I particularly like the intensity and punch of the finale. Worth a look.

My Tasting Notes:
(Tasted blind) Good nose of red fruit, meaty and earthy flavour.  On the palate, the wine has very good concentration with very fine tannins.  It is balanced with refreshing acidity.  Aftertaste is nice and long.  Agreed with burghound that this is a good village level wine.

Ch. Canon La Gaffeliere 2001 (Disappointed)

Purchased from Good Wine Store HK$688 (www.goodwine.hk)

Region: St. Emillon, Bordeaux, France

Grape Varieties: 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker Notes:
The vines, an average of 45 years old, are deeply rooted in the soil and absorb all the goodness in the terroir. They are mostly replaced individually rather than plot by plot (which maintains the average age). The last major replanting dates back to 1986. Mass selection is practised. This is especially useful in order to perpetuate the precious old Cabernet Franc vines. It not only maintains the vineyard's genetic heritage, but also its unique balance.

Remarkably well-structured, always elegant, and unfailingly long on the palate, Château Canon La Gaffelière eloquently illustrates Stephan von Neipperg's new orientation.

My Tasting Notes:
(Tasted blind) Frankly, I'm a bit disappointed about this wine.  Not that it is bad but I'm expecting more.  The nose showed very concentrated and intense blackcurrant flavour with a touch of chocolate and coffee.  My major disappointment is the wine is rather fat and thick in mouth and remind me of drinking syrup.  In addition, while the nose showed great concentration, the palate is not that dense and aftertaste is a bit short.  Not sure if it is just this bottle as I usually have quite good experience with Canon La Gaffeliere.

Ch. Larcis Ducasse 2003 (Recommended - very good quality)

Price around HK$500

Region: St. Emillon, Bordeaux, France

Grape Varieties: Merlot 75%, Cabernet Franc 20%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5%

Robert Parker Tasting Notes (Wine Advocate # 164 Apr 2006):
(RP90) This noble terroir is finally exploiting its full potential. Situated near Pavie on a clay/limestone base topped with pure limestone, the brilliant team of Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt has completely resurrected this great estate from the depths of mediocrity in less than two years. Fashioned from 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon (2,500 cases produced), the beautifully elegant 2003 reveals sweet cedar, fruitcake, and aristocratic cassis and tobacco notes reminiscent of an exceptional Medoc. Complexity and nobility continue in the mouth with wonderfully fresh, lively, black currant and plum-like characteristics interwoven with kirsch. Expansive, round, and generous, with low acidity and superb fruit ripeness, it is a candidate for drinking during its first 12-15 years of life. It is undeniably disarming at present, but will it close down? Anticipated maturity: now-2016.

My Tasting Notes:
(Tasted blind) The first time I tried this Bordeaux right bank Chateau.  This Chateau has been receiving quite positive feedback from various wine critics including Robert Parker and Jancis Robinson after Nicolas Tienpont running this Chateau since 2002. Parker even gave this Chateau 2005 vintage a score of 98!  To me, this wine has quite intense plum and ripe blackfruit flavours.  It is definitely very rich and concentrated yet without losing its elegant.  I like this wine very much.

Gaja Ca'Marcanda Promis 2006 (Very Disappointed)

Purchased from Rare and Fine Wines (www.rarenfinewines.com.hk) About HK$300

Region: Toscana, Italy

Grape Varieties: 55% Merlot, 35% Syrah and 10% Sangiovese

eRobertParker.com Notes:
(RP90) The 2006 Promis (Merlot, Syrah, Sangiovese) is a delicious, full-bodied red loaded with ripe fruit, spices, leather and grilled herbs. The wine offers terrific density and richness in an engaging, accessible style with tons of balance and sheer class. This is a gorgeous effort from Angelo Gaja and his team in Bolgheri. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014.

My Tasting Notes:
Intense nose of red and black fruit, spices and mint.  On the palate, however, the wine is rather simple and forward with detached alcoholic and acidity.  I also find the wine a bit unbalanced.  While this wine got very good review from both Robert Parker and Wine Spectator (both gave a score of 90), I really don't like this wine.

Marchesi de Frescobaldi Montesodi Riserva 2005 (Recommended - good quality)

Purchased from Jebson Wines HK$440 (www.jebsenfinewines.com)

Region: Chianti Rufina, Italy

Grape Variety: Sangiovese

Winemaker Notes:
Montesodi is a single-vineyard cru produced at Castello di Nipozzano, and is planted exclusively to sangiovese. This wine has its roots deep in Tuscan traditions and is one of the wines that best represents the winemaking philosophy of Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi.

Beautiful intense purple red . Rich, ripe currant and berry on the nose with hints of liquorice. Full bodied, with fine, lightly firm tannins that carry the fruit through the long finish.

My Tasting Notes:
(Tasted blind) I love this wine quite a lot.  It has very pure and ripe nose and palate.  The wine has great balance and concentration.  Finish is long.  My minor complaint is oak flavour is a bit too obvious.

Ch. Gruaud Larose 1996

Region: St. Julien, Bordeaux, France

Robert Parker Tasting Notes (Wine Advocate # 122 Apr 1999)
(RP89) In the bottle, Gruaud Larose appears to have returned to the form it possessed when I first tasted it from cask - a stylish, surprisingly civilized, medium-bodied wine without the muscle and power expected from both this terroir and vintage. It still possesses excellent density, as well as roasted herb, licorice, and black currant flavors intermixed with incense-like smells. The wine is medium to full-bodied, pure, rich, and forward. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2018.

My Tasting Notes:
(Tasted blind) The wine has good nose and fruit concentration.  Not over-powered but yet not really elegant in style.  I would say it is somewhat between musculine and finesse style.  Really a good Bordeaux but unfortunately nothing that really excite me.  BTW, while 1996 is generally being regarded as a very good vintage in Bordeaux, I hardly find a bottle of 1996 Bordeaux that I found them really good.  In contrast, I have much better experience with Bordeaux 2000 even though both vintages were rated by Parker as 96 for St. Julien, Pauillac and St. Estephe.

Royal Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos, Royal Tokaj Company

Purchased from London about GBP15 but also available at Rare and Fine Wines HK$355 (www.rarenfinewines.com.hk)

Region: Tokaj, Hungary

Grape Varieties: Primarily Furmint with some Hárslevelú and a small percentage of Muscat

Winemaker Notes:
A medium golden amber colour, on the nose showing orange peel, mint, figs and cinnamon. The palate is sweet and rich with cinnamon, apple, coupled to grapefruit aftertaste. Its sugar is well balanced with fine acidity which leads to a clean and refreshing, long finish. Will continue to improve over several years.

My Tasting Notes:
A good quality Tokaji Aszu with all the flavours one would normally expected such as orange peel, figs and tea.  While quite sweet on nose, the wine has very high acidity that balanced out the sweetness on palate.  A very good Tokaji Aszu for those preferring a not-too-sweet dessert wine.

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